Lijiang

After 24 hours of traveling, Kami and I arrived in Lijiang this past Tuesday.  Traveling was cold, long, and involved one very long and expensive taxi ride that was supposed to be about 5 minutes long.  However, all negativity was washed away as we touched down in beautiful Lijiang, a small city surrounded by mountains. Lijiang is what many Americans likely imagine China to look like–narrow winding cobbled streets, canals, red lanterns, and old style architecture with distinctive Chinese roofing.  In actuality, the majority of Chinese cities look nothing like this, and the ancient styled buildings here are filled with wares, souvenirs, guesthouses, and cafes.  Regardless, the city is charming in its beauty both man-made and creator-made.  From the skies, to the streets, to the canals it’s impeccably clean.  Sitting atop a hill overlooking the tiled roofs of the old town, it’s easy to imagine yourself in the romantic days of China’s past that we see portrayed in movies.  It’s been a leisurely few days as I’ve soaked in the beauty around me, unfortunately, mostly on my own; Kami has been sick our whole time here.  This afternoon we head off to the nearby city of Dali to visit some of her friends.  We’re slowly making our way further and further south–I look forward to the warmth of Thailand that is less than a week away!

Update

This little guy (we call him Gabe) has safely returned from surgery in Changchun. Thanks for all your thoughts!  His surgery was one of the most successful we’ve seen; just a few weeks out and his scar is barely noticeable.  Isn’t he just the cutest?

Saving the best for last

Our final party of the semester was this past Friday as we celebrated Christmas and the New Year with the kids at the orphanage.  We brought a cake (with tigers since the coming year is the year of the tiger), fruit, snacks, balloons, and presents and enjoyed an afternoon with the kids. In this case, I think the pictures are worth a thousand (or at least a hundred) words, so I’ll just leave you with a few of those.  For more pictures, head on over to my flickr site.

Ready to GO

I have yet to crack open a suitcase, laundry is far from complete, and my to do list remains a mile long, but I am ready to get out of dodge.  Why the sudden change of heart when I’m usually quite content to be at home?  When the prospect of living out of a suitcase for six weeks usually has me inwardly groaning?  One simple fact.  -25 degrees.  Fahrenheit.  Yes, that is a negative sign.  Yes that is actual temperature.  No that is not wind chill.  Granted, we have gotten as high as -5 some days when we’re lucky.  We were at about -12 yesterday when I decided to brave a quick trip to the grocery store that’s about a two minute walk from our apartment building.  I wanted to pick up a few potatoes and an onion for a new recipe I was trying.  Yes, despite the fact I’m shortly leaving for more than a month and am far from prepared I still am taking the time to try out new things in the kitchen.  What can I say, I’m trying to make up for the fact that I won’t be able to cook a single thing in the coming weeks.  That is a sad fact.  However, it also means I don’t have to wash a single dish in the coming weeks.  Not a sad fact.  Anyways, back to the grocery store.  I arrived to find a sheet draped over the vegetable bins.  I thought this was odd, but thought maybe they were trying to keep the vegetables safe from the frigid temperatures.  (Although last I checked keeping vegetables cold wasn’t such a bad thing.)  I folded back the edge of the sheet to grab a few potatoes.  That’s when a worker came over and announced, “You can’t buy those right now.”  A little flustered I responded, “What time can I buy them?”  “You can’t buy them today.”  “Why?”  I committed the fateful error of asking why.  Five years of living here and I still sometimes ask why.  This time I was even foolishly expecting an answer.  Instead, all I got was, “You can’t buy them today.”  I groaned inwardly, knowing that this fact meant an eight minute walk to the vegetable market if I wanted lemon herb potatoes to go with my lemon chicken.  I pulled my mittens back on, pulled my scarf up around my mouth, cinched my hood in tight, and bent over into the frigid temperatures out to the market.  The walk is quite pleasant in normal temperatures, but was absolutely painful yesterday.  As I trudged back to the apartment building with a frozen face and no feeling in my legs (despite long underwear), the thought that pounded through my head was, “Ok, I’m ready to go.  Bring on warmer temperatures.”  Tomorrow afternoon I’ll stand on a train platform (in just a fleece…who wants to carry a heavy winter coat through Thailand…and yes, I will regret this decision for the 10 minutes on the platform, but will be grateful during the weeks in Thailand) waiting for a train to take me south.  Hopefully by the time I get back to Siping the temperatures will be back in the positives.

In other news, the Buckeyes gave me the best going away gift a girl could ask for in a decisive victory over the ducks.  Who knew we actually had a passing game?  The game was pure delight to watch and is best captured in the following quote:

It was supposed to be a matchup of Oregon’s high-flying offense (No. 7 in scoring) against Ohio State’s stubborn defense (No. 5 in points allowed), but someone forgot to tell coach Jim Tressel, who either experienced an epiphany — “Gee, throwing the ball can be fun” — or decided that the punt isn’t the most important play in football when you can’t tackle the punt returner.

Ahhhh, sweet redemption.  Maybe the big ten isn’t so bad after all.  I hope you all are enjoying the first few days of the new year!

Food for thought

Let men embrace the rain.  Come, Wind, blow free

And stir the warm sweet breeze!  Dream, dreamless men!

Our empty youth come filled with prophecy.

Our grunts now Spirit-washed are words again.

The Great Invader breathes upon you as a man

Of Holy Fire, from that far land where all

Horizons meet.  He knocks with wounded hands

Upon the soul.  And penetrates the wall

Of your resistance to Earthmaker’s love.

The Spirit of the Singer comes to sing

An inner melody.  To fill above

Our brim of joy his own abundant being.

~excerpt from The Song by Calvin Miller

Balloon Rolls

Happy New Year!  Tonight I found out one of my flights in the coming week was canceled, which throws a wrench in my travel plans.  I’m currently trying to stay up long enough for it to be 9 am on the West coast so I can make needed arrangements with the airline.  Lucky for you, my chosen activity for keeping me awake is sharing a favorite family recipe.  Balloon rolls are just one variety of “The Rolls”.  “The Rolls” all come from Grandma Ruth’s recipe book.  I made the mistake of making them once for the team, and they are now demanded on all holidays.  I’m pretty sure these rolls are one of the main reasons they like to keep me around.  Balloon rolls are the variety that I’ve been making since I was a wee little girl.  Check out the recipe under “From the Kitchen”!

Outtakes

I had grand plans of stories to tell you this week, recipes to try and post, and changes to make to the website.  However, the time is quickly slipping away from me.  I leave Monday for six weeks of traveling through three different countries and have yet to solidify my itinerary (sorry Mom & Dad, I’ll get that to you as soon as possible).  At least my grades are finished!

In the meantime, I thought I’d spread some holiday cheer by sharing outtakes of our team Christmas day photo shoot.  Getting a picture of all 14 of us is a very rare occurrence.  Getting a picture of all 14 of us smiling, looking at the camera, and looking presentable is near impossible.  However, some of my favorite pictures are when I’m setting up the camera and randomly shooting pictures.

Outtake #1Most of the team is oblivious to the fact that I’m taking the picture.  However, Wu seems to have picked up on the fact.  Sonny is thinking happy thoughts.  Rachel, Anthony and Lauren are in lala land.  Kami is absolutely furious we’re making her take a picture.  Mark is fighting sleep.  Jennifer is absorbed in feeding Mia and Daren is trying to make Will presentable.

Outtake #2Most of the team has wised up to the fact that I’m taking pictures.  Consequently, this knowledge results in decent smiles from most of the team.  Except for Rachel.  Rachel can’t help making faces at the camera.  She thinks it will stop me from posting pictures of her.  Sorry Rach, didn’t work this time.  In this picture Sam appears to be taking after her mother.

Decent picture #1We’re all looking at the camera (with the exception of Mia).  We’re all smiling nicely.  This is pretty good for 14 people…except, Daren’s head is cut off a little bit.  I return to the camera to fix a few settings…

Outtake #3Once again, Rach hams it up for the camera, which apparently Kami finds quite amusing.  Will & Jude look to be on the same wavelength as Rachel.  Jennifer is staring off into the sunset contemplating deep and meaningful things like when her next box of rotel and Velveeta cheese is going to arrive.

The best of them:Will looks like he’s been bitten by a rabid dog.  Sam looks slightly constipated.  Sonny looks like he’s smiled for one too many pictures…but, it will have to do.  Happy new year from all of us!

A Foreigner’s Guide to Chinese Performances

Performance shows, or as they’re referred to in China, Parties, are about as common in China as dumplings and tea.  They are held to celebrate all sorts of important occasions, and they always follow the same procedure.  Below is my handy guide to the Chinese performance show.

The evening begins with some elaborate song and dance routine, usually befitting the theme or occasion of the party.  If it’s a Christmas party, Santa…and this year his helpers…are sure to make an appearance in the opening act.

Next, all four hosts (And yes, there are always four.  And always two boys and two girls.  It’s all about the balance.) come out to officially begin the party.  In loud exuberant, and often in unison, flowery phrases they get the audience in the mood for the evening.  I’m usually too distracted by the prom dresses ripped straight from the early nineties to pay much attention.  However, you know their spiel is over when you hear “… kai shi!”, which literally means “is open”.  Jilin Normal University College of Foreign Language Stunning Salute and Tribute to the Christmas holidays is open!

Following the hosts, the highest ranking guest in attendance comes to make a statement.  At our parties, this job usually falls to the head of our department, whose English name is appropriately Queen.

After the formalities are taken care of, we can move onto what we’re all really here for…the performances.  Sure to be among them is at least one group of belly-baring girls dancing to a pop, rap, or hip hop song.  The lyrics are often in English, and while most in the audience are probably oblivious to the meaning, the foreigners in the front row are sometimes left cringing.

Each performance also features at least one ethnic minority dance, complete with costumes.  These are usually my favorite part of the evening.

Performances are not complete without a showing of the local foreigners.  If you couldn’t tell the foreigners by their looks, you could tell them by their lack of preparation.  While students practice hours and hours for weeks and weeks, we usually meet for about 30 minutes to run through a skit or some songs.  We’re all about the improvisation.  This year we recycled our Christmas party performance from a few years back–a dramatic retelling of ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas.

Unfortunately, one of the kids refused to be asleep snug in her bed this year.  Someone had a bit of stage fright.  And someone thought the most convenient way to get off the stage FAST was the need for the ladies room.  Consequently, someone shrieked “peepee, peepee!” until she was carried off stage.  But that’s not what Wu is so excited to see.

He’s excited to see the eight…errrr…five…tiny…umm…large…reindeer prancing across the stage.  I was the reject reindeer at the back of the pack with broken antlers.  After prancing and pawing and wishing all a good night, we sang “We wish you a Merry Christmas” and returned to our front row seats for the rest of the performances.

The rest of the performances are sure to include modeling.  Yes, you read that right.  Modeling is considered a performing art in China.  It is not uncommon for your students to tell you about one of their classmates, “Oh so and so, yes, she’s very good at modeling.”  This year, the modeling began to the tune of Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer and ended to the tune of the Real Slim Shady.  Seriously.  I can’t make this stuff up guys.  The most popular pose for this year’s modeling act is what I like to call “the Nose Picker”.

Another common act is the comedy act, or as I like to call it “the long portion of the performances where you realize just how little Chinese you actually understand”.  The majority of the audience is quite entertained during this portion of the evening, while I struggle to understand the general idea of the act.  The most commonly chosen subject of comedy acts tends to be auditions for shows like American Idol, which lends itself to crazy dramatic characters.

In a performance, it is important for each class of students to have some sort of representation.  The easiest way to achieve this is to send one or two people up to sing a short solo or duet.  It is entirely unnecessary to be a skilled vocalist; all that is necessary is the courage to stand up and sing with all your heart into the microphone.  Your efforts will be rewarded by people rushing up to hand you flowers, or balloons, or santa hats.  However, don’t walk off with the loot…it’s needed for the next performer.

Occasionally, there will be a bit of hip hop dancing.  For awhile, there was a student we nick-named Dancing Larry who was actually quite skilled at this genre.  However, on the whole, Chinese students just aren’t very gangsta (I know that may come as a shock).  These two gals gave it their best shot.
If you’re getting tired and bored, never fear, the tried and true sign that the evening is drawing to a close is quickly approaching.  When a large group comes on stage to sing a somber song and they start holding hands and waving their hands…you know it’s almost over.

The four announcers in their ruffles and sequins will come back on stage, and in sad voices express their regret at the end of such a lovely evening.  And that folks is a Chinese Performance.

Merry Christmas!

Chinese Exam Strategies

This week is the last week of classes, which means I’ve spent about 10 hours observing my students taking exams.  Here are my exam-taking cultural observations:

  • If given the opportunity, some students will cheat–no matter how sweet and innocent they seem.  Before class, they will write the answers on their desk.  However, if they know you are a strict teacher who checks every single desk before an exam, they won’t even try.  More creative methods that I’ve seen are writing answers on their arms, writing answers on correction tape, and having a paper tucked up your sleeve.
  • Most students would excel in the boy scouts.  They operate on the premise of “always be prepared” for exams.  It’s not uncommon to have half a dozen pens on the desk, an eraser, and correction tape.  Of course, it’s always the one unprepared student whose pen runs out of ink.
  • While a lot of students at the beginning of the exam will flip through the exam once to gauge its length, almost all of them will work meticulously through the exam answering each question before moving to the next.
  • Chinese students check their answers.  Multiple times.  Again and again.  When I see a student begin on their fifth run through the test I’m always tempted to just take the exam away.  At that point, your second guessing is only going to lower your score.  I was always a “do it right the first time and turn it in” type of test-taker.  I rarely checked my answers, so it’s almost painful to watch students review their tests so many times.
  • It is bad to be the first person to turn in a test.  There is a famous idiom in China–the nail that sticks up gets hammered down.  I must admit, I’m chuckling inside as I watch the first five or so students finish the exam.  After they’ve reread the exam about a dozen times they start fidgeting and trying to look occupied.  None of them wants to be the first to raise their hand and admit they’re finished.  To make my exam-watching more entertaining, I place bets with myself on who will be the first to crack and turn in the exam.  As soon as one person gives in and becomes the first, another five immediately follow.
  • You should turn in your exam around the same time as your roommate/friend.  Chinese students often sit next to the same person every single class period, so I know a lot of my students as pairs.  I know Abby and Sarah go together and Hope and Sky go together.  If one is a faster test taker, they’ll sit and fidget and recheck until their partner turns in their exam.
  • It is bad to be the last person to turn in an exam.  After the first rush of six exams turned in, students slowly finish up.  The longest wait comes when there are two students remaining.  However, as soon as one of them turns in the exam I know I’m done twiddling my thumbs.  That last student will immediately turn in her exam as well…even if she’s only been able to check her exam three times.