Updated on August 2, 2011
Sunday Snapshot: Changbaishan
Wednesday morning at 4:20 AM, eyes a bit bloodshot, we waited in front of KFC for our tour bus. The reason for our being awake at such an unseemly hour the second day in a row was a trip to Changbaishan, a volcanic mountain surrounded by a nature preserve of hills and forests. The name “Changbaishan” in Chinese literally means “Long/Ever White Mountain.” The peak is one of the few stunning vistas in the Northeast of China. Like the Midwest in the States, this area of the country has little to boast in way of scenery. Don’t get me wrong, as a midwesterner I know how to appreciate the beauty of gently rolling golden cornfields opening up to an impressive expanse of sky. There is awe and wonder to be found even in the monotony of flat farmland. But I also understand that there are few people, when vacation time rolls around, who cry out, “Let’s go check out the cornfields of Indiana!” Similarly, there are few tourists upon arrival in China who deem the northeast as worthy of their time and resources. Like the midwest in the States, the northeast of China is a terrific place to live, but not the most exciting place to visit.
But once again I have digressed into wordiness in what is supposed to be a photography post. Back to Changbaishan…if there is one scenic place to visit in the Northeast, this is it. And six years into my stint of living in the Northeast, I had yet to partake of its beauty. Hence the reason for standing outside of KFC at 4:20 AM.
We boarded the bus for what was supposed to be a three to four hour drive to the nature preserve. Under normal conditions, this time estimate may be quite accurate. However, the winding country roads that must be taken to this remote jewel of the northeast were under major construction. About every half mile, our large tour bus was forced to off road on dirt tracks skirting around major sections of the road that were torn up. At some points we crossed streams on top of logs with dirt packed on top of them. Such conditions, and the corollary bumpiness, meant that sleep was elusive. Instead, I gazed out the window as a deep fog slowly burned off, revealing harvest fields and distant hills.
Six hours later we arrived at the nature preserve. And the only thought that soared through my mind was, “TREES!” Trees as far as the eye could see. Different colors, shapes and sizes. Allowed to grow and stretch in whatever direction they choose. In most cities in China, if there are trees, they are planted uniformly and constantly pruned to maintain that uniformity. A forest obviously not created by the plans of man, left undisturbed enough for moss and weed to creep and grow, was just the dose of nature my soul was crying for.
Updated on August 2, 2011
On the border
Tuesday morning, we rolled into Yanji (a town near the border of North Korea and China) at 4:30 AM. It was early, but it certainly wasn’t bright. We took a taxi down sleeping streets to the one open location: the 24 hour KFC. We “relaxed” in KFC for about an hour, and as the sun began to peek over the horizon went off in search of a hotel room. We landed in a reasonably priced place just about 50 yards from KFC that was willing to let us check in at 5:30 AM.
After a couple more hours of sleep, an early lunch (which didn’t feel so early considering we breakfasted at 4:30), and a much needed cup of coffee we hopped onto a bus to the nearby small city of Tumen, one of the cities directly on the border. The drive was surprisingly spectacular, as we coasted between hills ablaze with the hues of fall. A patchwork quilt of ascending and descending gold, burnt auburn and small bursts of crimson was a delight to us who on a regular basis see neither trees nor hills.
Upon arrival in Tumen, which though small was surprisingly clean and developed, we hopped in a cab for the quick jaunt across town to the border. What awaited us was a truly bizarre sight. Read More
Updated on August 2, 2011
Go out in joy
You will go out in joy and be led forth in peace; the mountains and hills will burst into song before you, and all the trees of the field will clap their hands. Isaiah 55:12
I’m back home again, and despite many hours logged in trains, buses and automobiles, I’m thankful for the journey into the mountains and hills of Northeast China. More pictures and stories of the paths I walked to come. For now, I’ve got to get all my ducks in a row because tomorrow is last Thursday, which means I’ve got several classes to teach.
Updated on August 2, 2011
Back on Friday…
Hopefully having seen this (weather permitting).
Photo by Yingge
Updated on August 2, 2011
Sunday Snapshot: A story for the grandkids
This snapshot features a trip from several years back. I briefly mentioned it in a previous snapshot, and include it here to bolster my courage as I head off on what will likely prove to be an interesting journey tomorrow. When facing stressful travel in Asia, I always remind myself, “If you survived the Sapa trip, you can do this.”
It was February 2007. I had already been traveling through China, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam for more than five weeks. My teammate Seth, his friend Jason and I were meeting up with Kirsten in Hanoi. Kirsten was a friend of Seth’s who taught in Vietnam, and who I had briefly met before. Prior to our arrival, Kirsten had booked train tickets for us up to Sapa, a town in the mountains of northern Vietnam. Due to a lack of knowledge of our budget and limited ticket availability during Tet holiday (Vietnam’s New Year), Kirsten had purchased hard seat tickets. When we found out the news, we weren’t too phased. We had all done hard seaters in China, and while the quarters are quite cramped, the benches actually have some padding and aren’t unbearable. However, upon arrival at the train station and after a peek in the window of a train we realized hard seat in Vietnam literally means hard seat. Or to be more exact, wooden park benches. We immediately asked Kirsten if it was possible to upgrade to a bed once on the train, a procedure that is quite common in China.
Kirsten obligingly asked around the station and eventually found a train attendant who said there was a private cabin available, although there was only one bed in the cabin. However, the cabin was private making it more conducive to sharing. We figured one bed was better than no beds, and reasoned that we could rotate between who was on the bed and who was on the seats throughout the night. We boarded the train to check out the accommodations, and the attendant led us to none other than the steward’s cabin. It was a tiny closet of a room, likely no more than 4ft by 5ft with one bunk, a luggage rack, and a rusty bucket of rusty tools. But, once again, better than nothing, so after bargaining about the price we handed over the cash. Soon thereafter the train started to roll out of the station.
It was as the train was rolling out that we realized there were two trains going to Sapa that night. And that our seats were on the other train. Read More
Updated on August 2, 2011
A walk on the wild side
National Holiday officially began yesterday. I had grand plans of cooking, eating, lesson planning, reading grad books, writing grad papers, cooking, eating, and sleeping. Lots and lots of sleeping.
But then my teammate Seth mentioned the idea of taking a quick two day trip to Changbaishan, arguably the most famously scenic spot in Northeast China. More than five years in the northeast, and I have yet to make it to this ‘must-see’ destination–one reason being that it’s not the easiest place to get to. But I told Seth if he figured out the details and if we could convince Kami to go, I’d make the trek. After all, it would only be two days and I don’t know how long I’ll be in the Northeast of China.
Due to limited ticket availability, two days has turned into a bit more than four days. We have beds for the 12 hour slow train there. And seats for the 12 hour journey back. Considering the fact that the seats were only 45 RMB, the train is not likely to be the most…uh, shall we say modern?…of trains. For a little perspective, we pay about 45 RMB to take the fast train for one hour to the big city. It’s trips like this that have great potential for adventure…and stories.
Here’s hoping the destination is worth it, and if not, that at least we come back with a few good stories to tell or a few good pictures to share. The journey begins Monday…
Updated on August 2, 2011
Pond wanderings
In the middle of Sports Day, the Clements and I took a break from the mayhem and crowds of the stadium and headed over to the pond on campus. Large groups of students can be overwhelming for the kids, as there is a constant ambush of cheek squeezing, giggling, and picture taking. Since the majority of the campus population was at the sports meet, the pond provided a quiet retreat where the kids could run in circles and hunt for fish in the pond. It also gave me an opportunity to get a few shots of our newest teammate with her family.
Will looks a little stunned in the above picture, but it’s hard to smile normally when you’re four…
Updated on August 2, 2011
The Sports Meet
In the States, university track meets feature stellar athletes who have trained for years fighting for the glory of first place finishes. In China, university sports meets feature teachers and students from every major competing for the glory of their department. Can you imagine all of your college teachers, including your chemistry and biology and physics professors (no insult intended towards the physical fitness of said professors) racing against each other? And we’re not just talking about a few 100 meter races. There are long races. There are races where you have to run and jump rope at the same time. There is the long jump, shot put, and bean bag toss. There is the run 50 meters with a ball balanced on a spoon event. And in all of these, your ordinary teachers must compete against the P.E. (as in physical education, as in we play sports day in and day out) department. It hardly seems fair.
Updated on August 2, 2011
One of a kind
She hates cilantro.
She loves cheese (and therefore adores pizza).
She always wants ice in her drink.
She not only understands, but also uses sarcasm.
She helps herself to stuff in my fridge.
She finds it hilarious that I have to practice marching with the teachers for the sports meet parade.
She is unlike any other Chinese person I’ve met.
And I love her.
Updated on August 2, 2011
Images from China
One of my favorite photojournalism websites, The Big Picture, recently featured a of pictures from China. Enjoy this glimpse at the many facets of China! Just to whet your appetite, here’s a peek at what university freshmen have been up to the past reviews couple weeks.
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