Sunday Snapshot: Changbaishan

Wednesday morning at 4:20 AM, eyes a bit bloodshot, we waited in front of KFC for our tour bus. The reason for our being awake at such an unseemly hour the second day in a row was a trip to Changbaishan, a volcanic mountain surrounded by a nature preserve of hills and forests. The name “Changbaishan” in Chinese literally means “Long/Ever White Mountain.” The peak is one of the few stunning vistas in the Northeast of China. Like the Midwest in the States, this area of the country has little to boast in way of scenery. Don’t get me wrong, as a midwesterner I know how to appreciate the beauty of gently rolling golden cornfields opening up to an impressive expanse of sky. There is awe and wonder to be found even in the monotony of flat farmland. But I also understand that there are few people, when vacation time rolls around, who cry out, “Let’s go check out the cornfields of Indiana!”  Similarly, there are few tourists upon arrival in China who deem the northeast as worthy of their time and resources. Like the midwest in the States, the northeast of China is a terrific place to live, but not the most exciting place to visit.

But once again I have digressed into wordiness in what is supposed to be a photography post. Back to Changbaishan…if there is one scenic place to visit in the Northeast, this is it. And six years into my stint of living in the Northeast, I had yet to partake of its beauty. Hence the reason for standing outside of KFC at 4:20 AM.

We boarded the bus for what was supposed to be a three to four hour drive to the nature preserve. Under normal conditions, this time estimate may be quite accurate. However, the winding country roads that must be taken to this remote jewel of the northeast were under major construction. About every half mile, our large tour bus was forced to off road on dirt tracks skirting around major sections of the road that were torn up. At some points we crossed streams on top of logs with dirt packed on top of them. Such conditions, and the corollary bumpiness, meant that sleep was elusive. Instead, I gazed out the window as a deep fog slowly burned off, revealing harvest fields and distant hills.

Six hours later we arrived at the nature preserve. And the only thought that soared through my mind was, “TREES!” Trees as far as the eye could see. Different colors, shapes and sizes. Allowed to grow and stretch in whatever direction they choose. In most cities in China, if there are trees, they are planted uniformly and constantly pruned to maintain that uniformity. A forest obviously not created by the plans of man, left undisturbed enough for moss and weed to creep and grow, was just the dose of nature my soul was crying for.

We made a few stops to take in the forests and streams.

Including an “auspicious tree” where people had tied red strings for good fortune. Oh that such sights would instead turn hearts and minds and eyes to the true Creator.

After our forest excursions, we headed to the main attraction: the lone white peak in the midst of the patchwork of autumn hues. In the past, you could hike up to the peak, but that path was closed after a tourist was killed in a rock slide. Instead, there is now a large fleet of four-wheel drive vehicles to cart tourists up to and down from the peak. The drivers’ of said fleet sole occupation is transporting visitors as fast as possible to and from the summit. These men are quite skilled at their trade, and take the curves of the winding road that cuts along the mountain’s side at speeds that physics would seem to deem as impossible. But tires squealing, and passengers lurching, these drivers masterfully manage for the most part to stay in their lane.

After the exhilaration (or terror, take your pick) of the ride up to the 2,800 meter summit, you are greeted by one of the most spectacular vistas I’ve had the privilege of seeing. The jagged, snow dusted volcanic peak cups a crystalline lake of color that defies description. The scene was too wide for my beloved 50 mm to take in, moving a high quality wide angle lens up to the top of my camera equipment wish list. The pictures hardly do the site justice, but it’s all I have to offer you. From this point on, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. Suffice it to say, 24 hours on trains and 12 hours on buses? Early morning wake-up calls? Worth it.